Category: History

On the road again: Cincinnati to Louisville Day 2

Continuing our journey, with Colson Whitehead’s The Underground Railroad as our soundtrack, we left Cincinnati, crossing the Ohio River into Covington, Kentucky. If Cincinnati has a bit of a southern vibe, the minute you cross into Kentucky somehow you ARE in the South.

We were a bit short on time but had an ambitious agenda for the day. A must stop was Carmichael’s Bookstore, the oldest independent bookstore in Louisville and it opens at 8 a.m. on Sunday! The staff was well informed and welcoming. When I asked about a local writer or title I was directed to a book I’d been eyeing for months. Southernmost by Silas House is a story of grappling with tragedy and truth, tolerance and forgiveness. It’s published by Algonquin Books, an independent press dedicated to literary fiction and nonfiction that gets people talking.

No trip to Louisville would be complete without a pilgrimage to Churchill Downs where Triple Crown dreams are born. In the upper 90’s, the weather wasn’t suitable for (wo)man nor beast and there was no racing scheduled for a while. Nevertheless, the museum has great displays about the horses, jockeys, owners, and trainers that make the Kentucky Derby an annual American classic. There is a breath-taking film shown on a racetrack-shaped surround screen that brings that captures a day in the life of Churchill Downs.

There are several tours of Churchill Downs offered. Our walking tour took us through all the spectator levels overlooking the historic track. Information about the architectural and requirements to maintain the facility was interesting, the multiple pricing scales to see the Derby, less so. At the tour’s end, a visit to the jockey area where the silks are kept, the weigh-in occurs, and the jockeys relax when not racing really was the highlight.

Our last must-see of the day was for the baseball-lover in me. Louisville Slugger has been the best-known manufacturer of baseball bats for over a century. A desire to help a slumping Louisville ballplayer has turned into a company known worldwide. Though not the only manufacturer of bats for major leaguers, they are the largest and count the many of the biggest stars as their customers. For each, they maintain very specific measurements and offer the choice of ash or maple and special stains and paints. Small escorted tours take visitors through the manufacturing process, without phones or cameras, of course, where staff members answer any and all questions. Time is well spent in the exhibit area where game-used bats from many of the historic greats of baseball history can be seen. The evolution of baseball is seen in a historical context. Before we left, there was the chance to hold game-used bats from Hall of Famers as well as current stars. I choose Hank Aaron and Ryan Zimmerman.

At the suggestion of a long-time friend, our one night in Louisville was spent at The Brown Hotel, where Southern hospitality is the only language spoken. For almost a century, the hotel has been a landmark in the city. We only scratched the surface of the sights in Louisville, a fine reason to return. Next stop:  NASHVILLE!

Facebooktwitterlinkedinmailby feather

On the road again! Nashville bound – Day 1

Before the era of total connectivity taking a vacation had a very different meaning. There was no phone or laptop to leave at home if you wanted to truly disconnect. On the flip side, having access to one’s work and other obligations from the road can make it possible to be away from home or work longer without being out of the loop. And you can get great ice cream recommendations from friends while on the road – more about that later!

There are large swaths of the US I have never visited. Among the top spots on my list was Nashville, so Dan indulged me by crafting our annual DC=> Hilton Head, SC, summer trip via Music City. None of this shortest distance/least time route as calculated by Waze for us! No, our goal is to take the opportunity to explore places that we have not seen.

STOP 1 – Cincinnati, OH: After a dinner pizza break in Breezewood, PA, we continued on and spent the night near the West Virginia line. Driving through Wheeling early in the morning brought a lovely sight. The soundtrack to the drive was Colson Whitehead’s The Underground Railroad, the terrain a reminder of the difficult miles that slaves seeking freedom and settlers had to traverse to find home. Shortly before noon, we arrived at the American Sign Museum. Out in an industrial area of Cincinnati, it is a true gem. They have gathered advertising signs from all eras of American industry, with wonderful audio descriptions. Thanks to the staff of the museum, we headed to Findlay Market, the oldest municipal market in Ohio, to find lunch. Wandering through the outdoor stalls, we came upon a familiar face, Teeny Morris, owner of Teeny Pies, one of our daughter’s housemates during their time in Chicago. It is very good to know a top-notch baker!

 

There were two more major events planned for Cincinnati. Once we dropped our bags off at the hotel, formerly the Cincinnati Enquirer Building, we walked to the National Underground Railroad Freedom Center. Open since 2004, the museum tells the story of the search for freedom from the arrival of slaves on our shores until today, worldwide. It is an ambitious effort and the targetted exhibits are well done. Its location looking across the Ohio River to Kentucky is echoed in a film of abolitionists aiding fleeing slaves leaving Kentucky.

I am a big baseball fan. The Cincinnati Reds were hosting the Milwaukee Brewers for a late afternoon game, so off we went. As practiced fans, we beat the heat by choosing seats in the shade and were lucky enough to score Rosie the Red bobbleheads! The Great American Ballpark is very roomy with great sightlines and wide concourses. It also has two huge screens with different player info and more advertising than I’ve seen at any other park.

Daughter #2 had been in Cincinnati recently on business and sent us to Nada for dinner, noteworthy for people in our area because they are expanding to Pike & Rose very soon. And then we took our Facebook friends’ recommendations and found Graeter’s ice cream nearby on Fountain Square, listened to live music and chatted with some Milwaukee Brewers fans before calling it a night.

SaveSave

SaveSave

SaveSave

SaveSave

SaveSave

SaveSave

SaveSave

Facebooktwitterlinkedinmailby feather

Following ‘The Underground Railroad’

  • The Underground Railroad by Colson Whitehead (Doubleday) 2016, (Random House Audio, Bahni Turpin – Narrator)
  • In 40 words or less: Cora’s self-sufficiency makes her an outcast among the slaves on the Georgia plantation. When Caesar, another slave, prevails on her to escape with him, Cora’s journey to find a free future and reclaim her past begins.
  • Genre: Literary fiction
  • Locale: Georgia and north
  • Time: Approximately 1840’s
  • Winner of both the Pulitzer Prize and National Book Award, Colson Whitehead uses magical realism and time-shifting to supplement the realistic and inhumane treatment of so many. Juxtaposing the attitudes of the slaveholders and those that maintained the railroad is fascinating. The villainy of the slave-catchers and the complacency of those standing by paints a portrait of the pre-Civil War US.

It took me far too long to make Colson Whitehead’s The Underground Railroad my own. Two years ago, Whitehead spoke at the BookExpo America Book & Author Breakfast, attended by the book trade, librarians, and bloggers or book group leaders like me. He is a charismatic speaker and it was clear that this book would make waves.

Several times a year, Dan and I head out on an extended road trip. This July’s was the most ambitious. We headed from the Washington, DC area to Hilton Head, SC, via Pennsylvania, Ohio, Kentucky, Tennessee, Alabama, and Georgia. It seemed fitting to choose The Underground Railroad as our audiobook since the characters Whitehead created traversed much of the same terrain.

Cora, the central character of the novel, is young and alone after her mother escapes the Georgia plantation and is never heard from again. All she is left by her mother is a tiny patch of land in front of their shack where Cora plants yams, supplementing her food supply and marking her independence. Cora is deeply hurt and angry that her mother has neither sent for her nor been in touch, though she clearly wasn’t captured and returned as a runaway. Very smart, Cora knows how to read and hides this knowledge since it could endanger her. She has only one friend and rebuffs efforts advances by any man, understanding that she is safer on her own.

Caesar, another slave on the plantation, has observed Cora and recognizes that her self-sufficiency and intellect would make his chance of escaping the plantation more likely. After several efforts, the two of them take off, heading to the underground railroad. Whitehead’s railroad is the literal conveyance that often comes to mind among those that are just learning about the period. There is a network of conductors, secretly assisting runaways on their journeys.

As Cora and Caesar travel from state to state, Whitehead creates different milieus that challenge their move to freedom. In each locale, the response of the residents to those seeking freedom is completely different as well. Whitehead’s descriptions draw the reader in and convey the terrifying situations that interactions with the residents and the terrain demand.

As I mentioned at the top, this was the audiobook we listened to as we made a big loop through many states that were on the real Underground Railroad. Looking out the window as the story unfolded, I gave more thought to the difficulty in traversing rivers, often with slave-catchers in pursuit and few swimming skills. I imagined the darkness and the dangers from run-ins with animals, trying to forage for food, and wondering if the one farm nearby was shelter or danger. The narrator, Bahni Turpin, gave distinctive voices to all the characters and created a picture that made the hours seem like minutes. While I should have moved this great novel to the top of the pile much sooner, I am grateful I waited. The combination of the book and the journey made this an experience I won’t soon forget.

SaveSave

SaveSave

SaveSave

SaveSave

Facebooktwitterlinkedinmailby feather

The Last Watchman of Old Cairo


  • The Last Watchman of Old Cairo     by Michael David Lukas (Spiegel and Grau) March 2018
  • In 40 words or less: Mixing historical figures with a centuries-long fictional story, Lukas brings to life the centuries-long intertwining of the Muslim and Jewish communities. In the modern thread, a graduate student heads to Cairo to learn more about the father he barely knew.
  • Genre: Historical fiction
  • Locale: Cairo, Egypt; Berkeley, CA; and England
  • Time: 11th/12th century to the end of the 20th century
  • The true story of centuries worth of documents discovered at the end of the 19th century is a centerpiece of the novel.

Until the middle of the 20th century, Jews and Muslims lived side by in Cairo as they had for almost a millennium. In the 1950’s, Egypt’s Jews were expelled, emigrating to Israel, France, and the United States.  A Jewish girl and Muslim boy, childhood friends, were reunited briefly in Paris in 1973, separating again before they knew of her pregnancy. Their child, Joseph, was raised in the US, only visiting his Egyptian family during an occasional summer, and maintaining his ties with his father through stories his father would tell over the phone.

Joseph’s father was the last in the line of Al-Raqb men who had served as night watchmen at Ben Ezra synagogue for generations. While not of high status, this was a position of great trust. After his father’s death, Joseph received a box with a piece of paper in Arabic and Hebrew, suggesting that Joseph should travel to Cairo. Joseph takes a leave from his graduate studies to connect with his late father and the secret he wanted to share.

In the late 1890s, Scottish twin sister adventurers and amateur scholars, Agnes Smith Lewis and Margaret Dunlop Gibson, brought fragments of Hebrew texts to Rabbi Solomon Schechter, a researcher in England. An expedition was arranged for Schechter to evaluate and bring back material from the Geniza, the repository for Hebrew sacred writings that may be torn or otherwise discarded, in the Ben Ezra Synagogue. While Schechter was in Cairo, Agnes and Margaret paid a visit while en route to the Holy Land. They, too, were interested in acquiring documents.  Michael David Lukas has made this on-site research project and interactions with prominent members of the Cairo Jewish and political communities a major storyline in the novel. Having previously read detailed accounts of this project, referenced by Lukas in notes about his research, this fact-based view into life in Cairo during this period is particularly intriguing.

Joseph’s visit with his family is not without some bumps. Culturally he is American through and through so there is the necessary adaptation to both pace and style. Additionally, Joseph is hesitant to reveal aspects of his life and plans to the family. Joseph is gay, and that plays a part, though doesn’t define the story.

When historical fiction is very successful it may entice the reader to explore periods or places in history that previously were unfamiliar.  The Last Watchman of Old Cairo does this and much more. Joseph’s Cairo is not that of the Arab Spring. It speaks to a time shortly before, when the flavor of the city was still captured in families with centuries of history. And just as the last watchman has died off, so has the Old Cairo that was home to people of all the Abrahamic religions, living and working together.

 

SaveSaveSaveSave

SaveSave

SaveSave

SaveSave

SaveSaveSaveSave

SaveSave

SaveSave

SaveSaveSaveSave

SaveSave

SaveSave

Facebooktwitterlinkedinmailby feather

1920’s, the birth of the FBI, and ‘Killers of the Flower Moon’

  • Killers of the Flower Moon by David Grann (Doubleday) 2017
  • In 40 words or less: After the Osage Tribe was relocated to Oklahoma, oil was discovered making the Osage the wealthiest people in the USA. Pillars of the white community systematically stripped them of their rights, money, and lives.
  • Genre: History
  • Locale: Oklahoma and Washington, DC
  • Time: 1920’s
  • Another untold chapter in US history brought to life almost a century later. The corruption that decimated the lives and assets of untold Osage family members also claimed the lives of some seeking to provide justice. Grann’s careful research sheds light on the formation of the FBI, the first national police force.

Even as students, we are aware the history we are taught is limited. Not only do the winners of wars write the histories, but many stories are buried out of fear or by others to whitewash the truth. For many of us, the early days of the FBI are tied to Prohibition, bootlegging and the Chicago gangsters of that era. These were the impetus for the creation of the first national police force which became the FBI. It was a force made up of accountants and lawyers in anticipation of fighting smuggling, tax evasion and the like.

Something strange was happening to Mollie Burkhart, her two sisters, and mother. Mollie was part of the Osage aristocracy – lovely homes, house servants, well-educated – and very wealthy. One sister died of an unexplained wasting disease, their mother was inexplicably ill, and then Anna disappeared. Anna was a bit wild but had strong ties to her family and had no reason to run. While she was seen right before her disappearance, the trail quickly went cold. There were too many odd things happening within the Osage that didn’t add up and some outside help was needed.

This is a many-layered story of racism and sanctioned plundering. Indians, and more particularly women, were considered incapable of managing their own affairs so guardians were appointed. White husbands were granted the right to control their wives’ allotments. And this system was ingrained in the lawyers, insurance agents and bankers of the community. These cabals endangered the safety of anyone questioning the system. It was into this that an odd undercover operation of the FBI run by a Washington outsider tried to shed some light.

Killers of the Flower Moon is deserving of all the accolades it has received. Every line is researched in detail, giving the reader a rare opportunity to see the crimes unfolding almost contemporaneously. This is very important history beyond Oklahoma and is finally getting attention. Book groups, even those primarily reading fiction, will find David Grann’s telling compelling.

SaveSaveSaveSave

SaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSave

SaveSave

SaveSave

SaveSave

Facebooktwitterlinkedinmailby feather